Textiles as offerings: The sacred role of fabric in Bali
In Bali, fabric is far more than a functional material, it is a sacred medium through which people interact with the divine. Textiles are omnipresent in ceremonies, adorning temples, statues, altars, and bodies. During rituals, one might see shimmering gold songket draped over temple shrines, black-and-white checkered poleng cloth wrapped around banyan trees to represent the balance of good and evil, or people wearing naturally dyed sarongs in deep reds and indigos as they bring offerings to the gods.
Every cloth has a spiritual function. A piece of fabric might symbolize purity, fertility, balance, or protection, and its use in ceremonies is never random. To wear a specific textile during Galungan or a cremation ceremony is not merely tradition, it is a meaningful act of participation in the spiritual life of the island. Ikat and songket are not simply artisan products; they are tools of connection between the visible and invisible worlds, between people and ancestors, gods and spirits.
The Geringsing of Tenganan: Bali’s hidden textile gem
Tucked in the eastern region of Karangasem, the village of Tenganan Pegringsingan is home to one of Bali’s rarest and most sacred textile traditions. The villagers here produce geringsing, a form of double ikat that is among the most complex and spiritually significant fabrics in the world. This technique, in which both warp and weft threads are tie-dyed before weaving, is only found in three places globally: India, Japan, and Bali.
Geringsing means “no sickness,” and the fabric is believed to carry protective and healing powers. It is used in rites of passage such as weddings, tooth-filing ceremonies, and cremations. The patterns are geometric, often featuring interlocked diamonds, stylized flowers, or sacred symbols like the tree of life. The creation of a single piece can take many months, sometimes up to a year, and the knowledge is passed down from mother to daughter like a sacred family secret.
The dyes used in geringsing are entirely natural. Indigo leaves provide rich blues, morinda root brings deep reds, and fermented mud creates powerful blacks. Each step in the dyeing and weaving process is done with deep concentration and respect. Creating geringsing is not just craft, it is ceremony. Each thread holds intention, memory, and spiritual energy.
The Songket of Sidemen: Gold threads in the rice terraces
In the serene valley of Sidemen, surrounded by rice terraces and coconut palms, the traditional craft of songket weaving thrives in small family workshops. While songket is often associated with Sumatra, Balinese versions have their own style and sacred purpose. These luxurious fabrics are typically woven from silk or fine cotton, then embellished with golden or silver threads that form intricate patterns.
Songket in Bali is mostly worn by women during important temple festivals, weddings, and ceremonies. The motifs woven into the cloth are full of meaning. Floral designs represent beauty and fertility, cosmic mountain shapes evoke the link between the divine and the earthly, and ancient symbols of eternity signal continuity with the ancestors. Each pattern has a story, and every thread a message.
Weaving songket is a meticulous process that requires patience, focus, and artistic skill. A single shawl or sarong can take weeks, sometimes months to complete, depending on its complexity. These fabrics are not just beautiful, they are symbols of divine light, protection, and sacred abundance.
The magic of natural dyes: Plant-based alchemy
The colors in Balinese textiles come from the earth itself. Natural dyes are made using plants, roots, bark, mud, and flowers, gathered from the surrounding environment. The process of creating color is slow, deliberate, and often spiritual. It requires both scientific knowledge and deep respect for nature.
To produce indigo blue, leaves are soaked and fermented in water. The resulting greenish liquid turns a brilliant blue when exposed to air. Creating a deep, saturated blue may require many dips and careful timing. For red hues, the roots of the morinda plant are boiled and mixed with alkaline ash. Yellow dye is extracted from turmeric rhizomes, producing a sunny, vibrant shade, while bark or candlenut husks create gentle browns and greys. For deep blacks, artisans blend indigo with iron-rich mud and burnt coconut husk ash in a process that involves repeated cycles of soaking and drying.
Fixatives, known as mordants, like lime, alum, sea salt or wood ash, help bind the dye to the fiber. After dyeing, the threads are washed in fresh spring water or river water and dried slowly in the shade to preserve their vibrancy and energy. This ancestral alchemy creates colors that are earthy, vivid, and alive with depth. Each shade is the result of time, care, and a deep relationship with the environment.
A heritage at risk, a revival in motion
Despite their beauty and cultural significance, the traditional arts of ikat and songket are increasingly under threat. Globalization and mass production have introduced cheap, synthetic fabrics and dyes, reducing demand for handcrafted cloth. Younger generations often leave their villages to pursue jobs in tourism or cities, leaving looms untouched and traditions in danger of fading.
But across Bali, signs of revival are emerging. Cultural organizations like Threads of Life in Ubud support local weavers through fair trade, education, and workshops. They help artisans gain visibility and income while preserving ancestral techniques. In Sidemen, more young people are returning to their family looms, encouraged by a growing interest in sustainable and ethical fashion. Some workshops now welcome visitors, offering weaving and dyeing demonstrations that not only educate but generate economic support for local communities.
Contemporary Indonesian designers are also playing a key role in this revival. Figures like Didiet Maulana and Biyan bring ikat and songket to modern fashion runways, merging traditional craftsmanship with bold, contemporary designs. These innovations show that heritage textiles can be both sacred and stylish, ancient and alive.
Threads that bind generations
Balinese textiles are more than garments or decoration. They are sacred expressions of a worldview in which beauty, spirituality, and nature are inseparably woven together. Every pattern carries a meaning. Every color tells a story. Every thread connects past and present, ancestor and child, earth and sky.
In a world that often values speed and quantity over depth and meaning, these textiles remind us of the importance of slowness, intention, and respect. They speak to a way of life where craft is culture, color is spirit, and fabric is prayer. To weave is to remember. To wear is to honor. And to keep these traditions alive is to keep alive the soul of Bali itself.